Bay Laurel Laurus nobilis

Reviewed June 2026 · how we check this

A slow-growing Mediterranean evergreen grown for its leathery, aromatic leaves — the bay leaves that flavor stocks, stews, and braises. Happy in a large pot that can move indoors for winter, it rewards patience with decades of fragrant harvests from a single handsome shrub.

Light

Bay laurel wants the brightest spot you can give it — a full six hours of direct sun produces the most aromatic, oil-rich leaves. Outdoors, set the pot where it gets sun for most of the day, with light afternoon shade welcome in the hottest summer regions. Indoors over winter, a south-facing window is ideal; in dim rooms the plant survives but pushes out pale, soft, sparsely scented growth and stretches toward the glass. If yours leans hard or the new leaves look thin and washed-out, it needs to be closer to the light or supplemented with a grow light.

Watering

Let the top inch of the mix dry before watering, then soak the pot thoroughly until water runs from the drainage holes and tip out the saucer. In a warm sunny spot that's roughly weekly in summer and every 2–3 weeks in cool winter quarters — but go by the soil, not the calendar. Bay laurel is drought-tolerant once established and far more forgiving of slightly dry than of constant wet feet, which rot its roots. Wilting leaves that recover after a drink mean it ran too dry; yellowing leaves over soggy soil mean too much. Containers dry faster than open ground, so check often in heat.

Soil & potting

Use a free-draining, gritty mix — a quality potting mix cut with a third perlite, pumice, or coarse sand to keep it open and fast-draining. Bay laurel resents heavy, water-holding soil, and a container with drainage holes is essential. A loam-based mix with added grit suits its long stay in the same pot well. Because it grows slowly, it needs repotting only every 2–3 years; lift it in spring, tease the roots, and move up just one pot size, since an oversized pot stays wet and invites rot. Top-dress the surface with fresh mix in the off years.

Humidity & temperature

Average household and garden humidity suits bay laurel fine — it asks nothing special here. Temperature is what matters: it thrives between 45 and 80°F and is hardy only to about 20°F, so in zones below 8 grow it in a pot and bring it indoors before the first hard frost. Site it in a bright, unheated or cool room over winter, away from blasting radiators and forced-air vents that dry and scorch the foliage. Cold drafts and sudden swings cause leaf drop. Move it back outside gradually in spring once nights stay reliably above freezing.

Fertilizing

Bay laurel is a light, slow feeder, so go easy. Apply a balanced liquid fertilizer at half strength once a month through spring and summer while it is actively growing, and stop entirely in fall and winter when growth pauses. A slow-release granular feed worked into the surface in spring is an easy alternative. Over-feeding pushes weak, floppy growth and can brown leaf tips and crust the soil with salts — if you see that, flush the pot with plain water. A yearly top-dress of fresh mix supplies much of what this undemanding shrub needs.

Pruning & maintenance

Bay laurel takes pruning beautifully and is the classic herb for shaping into a standard (lollipop) or pyramid. Prune in late spring or early summer with clean snips, cutting just above a leaf or node to direct new growth and keep the plant dense. Pinch the tips of young plants to encourage branching. Harvest leaves any time the plant is in active growth — pick mature, fully expanded leaves, which carry more aromatic oil than soft new ones. Leaves dry well: spread them flat for a couple of weeks, and their flavor actually deepens. Avoid removing more than a third of the foliage at once.

Propagation

Bay laurel is famously slow and tricky to start from seed, but it can be done with patience. Sow fresh seed in spring into a gritty seed-starting mix, barely covered, and keep it warm (around 70°F, a heat mat helps) and lightly moist. Germination is erratic and can take one to six months, so don't give up early. Seedlings grow slowly; pot them on once they have a few sets of true leaves. Most gardeners find semi-ripe stem cuttings taken in late summer faster and more reliable, but if you start from seed, expect to wait years for a harvestable plant.

Common problems

Yellow leavesUsually overwatering or poor drainage — check the soil and roots first.→Scale insects and sooty moldSticky leaves and brown bumps point to scale, bay laurel's most common pest.→

Through the year

Spring

Growth resumes — repot if needed, resume monthly feeding, prune to shape, and move the pot back outdoors once nights stay above freezing.

Summer

Peak growth and best harvest. Water when the top inch dries, feed lightly, and pick mature leaves freely for drying.

Fall

Growth slows — stretch out watering, stop feeding, and bring potted plants into a cool bright spot before the first hard frost.

Winter

Near-dormant. Keep it in a cool, bright room, water sparingly, skip fertilizer, and shield it from radiators and cold drafts.

Companion planting

Bay laurel pairs well with other Mediterranean herbs that share its love of sun and sharp drainage — grow it near rosemary, thyme, sage, and oregano in a sunny bed or grouped pots.

Recommended supplies for Bay Laurel

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