Tarragon Artemisia dracunculus

Reviewed June 2026 · how we check this

A graceful, aromatic perennial with slender green leaves and a distinctive anise-licorice flavor that anchors French cooking. The prized French tarragon is grown only from cuttings or division — never reliable seed — and rewards sharp drainage, lean soil, and full sun with delicate, sweetly fragrant foliage.

Light

Tarragon wants full sun — at least 6 hours of direct light a day — to develop the warm, anise-sweet oils that make it worth growing. In strong sun the foliage stays compact, well-flavored, and disease-resistant; in too little light it grows thin, floppy, and bland, with weak stems that flop and mildew. In hot southern gardens a little afternoon shade in midsummer is welcome and keeps the leaves tender. Indoors, French tarragon is genuinely difficult: even a bright south window rarely supplies enough light, so most potted plants stretch and weaken without a grow light running 12–14 hours a day positioned close overhead. If yours is leaning and leggy, it's asking for more sun.

Watering

French tarragon likes evenly moist soil while actively growing but absolutely will not tolerate soggy, waterlogged roots — wet feet are the fastest way to kill it. Water deeply when the top inch or two of soil has dried, then let it dry again before the next drink rather than keeping it constantly damp. Established plants in the ground are fairly drought-tolerant and need watering mainly in dry spells. Containers dry faster, so check by weight and finger-test rather than on a fixed schedule. Yellowing lower leaves with wet soil signal overwatering and looming root rot; limp, dull, drooping stems usually mean it finally went too dry. Always err slightly toward dry.

Soil & potting

Tarragon demands light, lean, sandy, sharp-draining soil and resents the rich, heavy, moisture-holding ground that suits leafier herbs. A roughly neutral pH around 6.0–7.5 is ideal, and overly fertile soil produces soft growth and diluted flavor. In beds, lighten heavy clay generously with coarse sand or fine grit, or plant in a raised bed or mound so water drains freely away from the crown. In containers, cut a standard potting mix with plenty of perlite or sand, or use a fast-draining cactus-type mix, in a pot with generous drainage holes. Good drainage matters more than richness — this is a plant that thrives on lean conditions and clean, airy roots.

Humidity & temperature

Tarragon prefers airy, breezy, low-to-average humidity and dislikes the stagnant, muggy conditions that breed powdery mildew and rust, so give plants room and good airflow. It grows best in mild temperatures around 60–75°F and slows in extreme summer heat. Importantly, French tarragon is a true perennial that needs a cold winter dormancy — several weeks of near-freezing temperatures — to regrow vigorously, so it performs poorly in hot, frost-free climates. It's hardy in Zones 4–8, dying back to the ground in winter and resprouting in spring. In Zones colder than 4, mulch the crown heavily or pot it up to overwinter in a cold but protected spot.

Fertilizing

Tarragon is a light feeder that actually prefers lean soil, so go easy — heavy feeding produces lush, floppy growth with a weaker, washed-out anise flavor. In the ground, a light top-dressing of compost in spring is usually all it needs for the whole season. Container plants, whose nutrients flush away with frequent watering, benefit from a balanced liquid fertilizer at half strength every 4–6 weeks through spring and early summer only. Stop feeding by late summer and through fall and winter while the plant winds down toward dormancy. If the foliage looks dark, soft, and leggy rather than slender and aromatic, you're overfeeding and should back off.

Pruning & maintenance

Regular harvesting is the best pruning tarragon can get — snip the top few inches of tender stems often to keep the plant bushy, productive, and from going lanky. Pinch off any flower buds as they form; flowering diverts energy and dulls the leaf flavor, and French tarragon rarely sets viable seed anyway. Take light, frequent cuttings through the growing season rather than a single hard shearing, and harvest most heavily in early to midsummer when the oils peak. In late fall, after the plant dies back naturally with frost, cut the dead stems to the ground and mulch the crown. Divide and refresh tired plants every 3–4 years to keep flavor strong.

Propagation

French tarragon does not come true from seed — most seed sold as tarragon is the coarse, nearly flavorless Russian type — so propagate the real thing only from cuttings or division. In spring or early summer, take 4–6 inch tip cuttings of soft new growth, strip the lower leaves, optionally dip in rooting hormone, and set in moist, gritty mix or water on a bright sill; roots form in a few weeks. Even easier is division: in early spring, lift an established clump and pull or cut the crown into rooted sections, replanting each promptly. If you must start from seed, know you're growing Russian tarragon, which is hardier but markedly milder.

Common problems

Tarragon yellowing, wilting, or dyingAlmost always root rot from overwatering or poor drainage — check the soil and roots first.→White powder or rust spots on leavesUsually damp, stagnant, crowded air — improve airflow and ease off the water.→

Through the year

Spring

Growth resumes from the crown — divide tired clumps, take cuttings, refresh the topsoil with a little compost, and begin light tip-harvesting once stems lengthen.

Summer

Peak growth and harvest. Water deeply but let it dry between, pinch off flower buds, and harvest tips often while the anise oils are at their strongest.

Fall

Growth slows toward dormancy — stop feeding, ease back on water, and let the plant begin to die back naturally with the first frosts.

Winter

Dormant. The plant dies to the ground; cut back dead stems, mulch the crown for cold protection, and water container plants only sparingly until spring.

Companion planting

Often called the "nurse plant" of the garden for its reputed benefit to neighbors; pairs well with most vegetables, and its strong anise scent is said to deter some pests; keep it away from other moisture-loving herbs and give it lean, dry company like its Mediterranean cousins.

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